Want to know how to use a Router Table? Here are tips to get
the most from your router table.
You do not need a miter channel. Typically, you slide your
work along the fence. If using a miter channel, then the fence must be square
to the miter channel. Why go to that trouble?
You can create a jig to glide along the Fence. This
automatically aligns the wood to get a square cut. You can make adjustment in
profile and depth of cut. A Router Lift makes this easy.
A quality Router Table fence eases dust collection. Use your
Router Table and Fence for simplicity and ease!
You should never put your work between the fence and the
router bit. That is just asking for trouble.
Typically, you slide the wood from right to left (when
looking at the fence from the front). That is an anti-climb cut. You make
nearly all cuts this way.
If very careful, you can go a short distance in
the opposite direction. But you must hold on tight to avoid
kickback and/or injury. This climb cut gives cleaner edges, but you should only
attempt it after a lot of experience.
Only do less than 15% of your work this way. You should only
use shallow or light cuts. Do NOT take big cuts. Only do it when you hands are
protected and away from the router bit.
How to use a Router Table to center edge-to-edge joints:
Have you ever wondered how to center edge-to-edge joints?
You use this technique for making solid tabletops, wide panels, or even make
edging to go around your router table top.
Let's use an actual example of oak edging on a MDF Router
Table Top. The top is 1 1/8" thick. The oak edging is 1 1/8" thick.
How do we ensure a centered edge?
1.
Decide
on the tongue dimension. You have a 1/4" slot cutter. You want the tongue
thickness less than two times the cut. Therefore, the tongue thickness is
slightly less than 1/2". We use a 1/4" depth of cut for this example.
2.
We
want a tongue that is less than 1/2" in thickness. Therefore, we know that
the rabbet on the Table Top is slightly more than 5/16" on both sides of a
1 1/8" thick piece.
3.
Rabbet
the top with a rabbet bit with a bearing to produce a 1/4" rabbet. You
don't want to take a lot during your first pass. Therefore, the depth of cut is
set for 1/8" for your first pass.
4.
Set
the fence so it is even with the bearing of the rabbet bit.
5.
Cut
both top and bottom of the top. Take your time and go all the way around. Make
sure the workpiece is flat on the Router Table Top. Or use the router on top of
the workpiece.
6.
Measure
the thickness of the tongue. If it is larger than 1/2", then adjust the
depth of cut. A router lift makes this easy. Note: you rout
both sides; therefore use one-half the adjustment for each side.
7.
Make
your adjustment, rout the top and bottom again. The tongue's thickness is now slightly
less than 1/2".
8.
Replace
your rabbeting bit with your 1/4" slot cutter. I always disconnect
the power source to the router before changing bits!
9.
Sit
the rabbeted piece on the router tabletop near the slot cutter. Raise the
Router so the bottom of the slot cutter aligns with the bottom of the tongue.
You may need support if the workpiece is large.
10. Set the depth of cut for the
slot to around 3/16" initially. Now slot your Oak edging. Turn it over and
slot again. Test the slot on the tongue. Is it too tight? If so, remember that
you make two passes with the slotter. Only lower your slot bit by 1/2 of the
dimension needed. By the way, the Porter Cable 7518 Router makes this a snap.
11. Since the slot cut is
1/4", the second pass is not using the entire cutter. You get an exactly
center slot that fits on the tongue.
12. Once the slot (groove) fits
on the tongue, you are ready to set your final depth of the groove. The final
depth of cut is slightly more than 1/4" to allow for glue.
13. Set your fence for this final
depth. Remember - make two passes with the slotter. This gives you an exact
fit.
You can use this method for any edge-to-edge joinery, such
as tabletops, panels, large drawer fronts, and any time you want to join
two-pieces. You get perfect alignment and a rock-solid joint.
If you want to see how this looks after glue-up, please
visit routertableguide.com
Read more:
https://www.academia.edu/17844304/Router_Table_-_How_to_Use
https://thatsblogging.wordpress.com/2015/11/06/40/
http://thatsbloggings.weebly.com/blog/router-table-how-to-use
https://medium.com/@thatisblogging/router-table-how-to-use-a1b4e563ca6f
https://www.rebelmouse.com/thatsblogging/router-table-how-to-use-1441147202.html
http://thatsblogging.livejournal.com/2863.html
http://thatsblogging.hatenablog.com/entry/2015/11/06/165059
http://thatsblogging.tumblr.com/post/132653623343/router-table-how-to-use
http://www.bitlanders.com/blogs/router-table-how-to-use/3691333
http://thatsblogging.blog.com/2015/11/06/router-table-how-to-use/
Read more:
https://www.academia.edu/17844304/Router_Table_-_How_to_Use
https://thatsblogging.wordpress.com/2015/11/06/40/
http://thatsbloggings.weebly.com/blog/router-table-how-to-use
https://medium.com/@thatisblogging/router-table-how-to-use-a1b4e563ca6f
https://www.rebelmouse.com/thatsblogging/router-table-how-to-use-1441147202.html
http://thatsblogging.livejournal.com/2863.html
http://thatsblogging.hatenablog.com/entry/2015/11/06/165059
http://thatsblogging.tumblr.com/post/132653623343/router-table-how-to-use
http://www.bitlanders.com/blogs/router-table-how-to-use/3691333
http://thatsblogging.blog.com/2015/11/06/router-table-how-to-use/
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